June 11 – Falkirk Wheel and Navigating the Union Canal to Linlithgow

In August 2024, I got the idea that for my 70th birthday, I might want to do a narrowboat canal journey in Scotland or Wales, and maybe invite some friends. I told my partner, and he said “Why don’t we do that this year, since we’ll be there?” Oh! OK! Some research was required – and I finally settled on a company called Black Prince Holidays. They do narrowboat rentals all over the UK, but my focus was on Falkirk, as I had been seeing photos of and reading about the Falkirk Wheel and the Kelpies for a long time (thanks, Facebook Scottish travel groups!).

It took a bit to narrow down the logistics and planning of this leg of the trip. Probably more complicated than any of my prior planning experience – lots of moving parts. But we did it!! And it was a grand cozy adventure. And a little nerve-wracking at times – it is work! But sloooowwww work.

But first things (almost) first.

When you check in at Black Prince, they assign you a volunteer who tells you how to run the boat (simple, except you turn the tiller the opposite way you want the boat to go, which is in some ways difficult if you think about it too much, but becomes easier if you don’t), and also how to live in the very wonderfully-outfitted boat (stove, heat, bathroom, etc.).

I knew from what I read that going from the Forth and Clyde to the Union Canal, and then onwards on the Union, there would be one single and one double lock. I didn’t realize that you have to go through a lock ALMOST IMMEDIATELY upon starting up the boat! The volunteer stayed with us for that one. Then you navigate onto the Falkirk Wheel. OMG. Omg.

As we approached the Falkirk Wheel to get our narrowboat! Just the last few seconds of its cycle.

Captain and crew about ready to hit the water!

Another amazing thing you don’t have any clue about until you experience it. We are tied up in place, with a volunteer very nearby. It takes a while for things to get started. Then your giant tub of water starts to rise.

The Falkirk Wheel replaces 11 locks that used to connect the Forth & Clyde and Union canals (the Forth & Clyde proceeds west to Glasgow, the Union goes to Edinburgh – possible in the three days we had, but we knew we wouldn’t get that far!). What used to take 1/2 day, now takes 15 minutes.

I was SO glad we didn’t have many locks to go through. Some canals have A LOT, some of which the pilots have to operate themselves. The locks we went through had volunteers staffing them, thankfully. This first lock before the Wheel, we had help from the narrowboat company volunteer.

The wheel is a magnificent feat of engineering.

Not shown here: the double lock shortly after departing The Wheel, where I steered us in all cockeyed, but we managed to get through it. Then a very long tunnel, with specific directions about how to get through it (headlines, horn, etc.). FINALLY on the open canal on a spectacular and sunny/warm day. There had been rain in the forecast up until the day of — what amazing luck!

After the double lock, this was the first adventure! And a very drippy one at that.

I was the official “captain,” but my first mate did a fine job!

The Laughin and Greetin bridge! (“Greeting” is a Scots word for crying.) The two faces of this bridge look in opposite directions: the Laughing face towards the simpler construction work east and the Greeting face towards the more difficult construction work of a tunnel and flights of locks to the west.

It was a lot of this. Just exactly this. Gloriously this.

I think we couldn’t have asked for a more beautiful day for this. Rain had been threatened for weeks, so we were quite relieved. The constant bird song accompaniment was just the best music ever.

Lotsa ducks on the canal. It was duckling season, so a treat!

We pulled over and tied up so David could run to the Tesco’s nearby to fill in the gaps on groceries. We had a snafu with our delivery to the boat, but Black Prince was amazing and sent someone to pick the groceries up (I had indicated that I’d pick them up, so totally user error).

We’re all floating along at about the same speed.

There were people walking faster than we were going! Top speed is 4 mph. We were going about 2-3 mph

The aquaduct is narrow, but not as narrow as it feels like! It’s not the worst thing to bump the sides, but one tries not to. This is David at the tiller and me with the camera. Listen to those birdies!

Viaduct is water over a roadway. Aquaduct is water over other water. Union Canal passes over a river at this point.

I’ll admit, that was a little nervewracking.

We found a primo parking spot along the canal at Linlithgow. Decided to tie up for the night. It took us a long time to go the 11 miles from Falkirk.

Couldn’t be happier with this fine experience!

We would see the original fountain the next day!

So reminds me of the unicorn from Alice in Wonderland.

Flower photos because they are pretty, and also to use for my nature journal……someday.

A little look at the interior. And a really delicious grilled cheese and salad dinner!

Sunset over Linlithgow. We were well satisfied with our day, and with our wonderfully comfortable floating accomodations!

View from a window in the boat. So peaceful.

Day One on the Union Canal, and we were pretty happy to be done. Piloting the boat is fun, but also work. We both needed to be on deck and paying attention the entire time. If you have a larger boat and more crew, there’s opportunity to relax while on the canal. If it’s just two of you, no way. But the slow speed and sheer beauty makes up for that.